Don't Forsake a Place for the Sake of Another, Villa de Leyva
There are places and moments that consume us. Not necessarily spectacular or extra ordinary. More a sense of comfortableness, of contentment. Where circumstances collide and collude to contaminate our conscious with continuity in place of continuation. The precipitation of parking, pretense to permanence, where perpetuance consents to cessation.
What We Did
Villa de Leyva
On our way to Villa de Leyva we decided to stop at a big truck service center outside Duitama to see if they could check a couple things on the van. Unfortunately they only performed basic services but the owner made a couple calls and got us into a great local shop owned and managed by Henry Patarollo. Eight hours later we had new sway bar bushings, drive shaft o-rings, and our driver's side hub c-clip replaced for the low price of $53. Even though it was a Friday, they busted their butts to get us all tightened and fixed up in addition to all the local vehicles they had to complete for the weekend. The biggest obstacle was the language barrier which was kindly solved by a Colombian/American, from Tampa, who happened to be in town visiting family. We left after dark, breaking the no driving at night rule, and stopped at a Terpel a few miles away for the night.
Rolling into Villa de Leyva during a three day holiday made navigating through town a little tricky but we were completely enamored. Getting parked, wandering the streets, and perusing all of the crafts on display for the tree festival in the gigantic square made it clear that we'd be staying for a least a few days. Once we started finding traditional soured dough bread, French pastries, and dining at the plethora of really nice restaurants it was apparent we might end up staying in town a bit longer. Eventually, road construction forced us out, the risk was having our tourist and vehicle permits expire before the road was usable again, three weeks after we had arrived. To say that Villa de Leyva is our favorite is an understatement. We had fallen so head over heels we have driven back, after extending our tourist and vehicle permits, and expect to spend the holiday season eating and being exuberantly merry.
Mi Refugio
We knew we wanted to be in town for easy access making Mi Refugio our home base. While it didn't seem like much, just parking in the small vehicle area close to the street for 18,000 per person ($6), it had everything we were wanting. The reason the place is so magical is the hosts. Diana, Santiago, and little Lucia are beyond wonderful. We couldn't have wished for more. Our only regret is that upon our return to Villa de Leyva the road is still not finished so we aren't back with our dear friends.
As in most places wonderful, several overlanders rotated through making for great times. Meals were shared, wine drunk, stories told, and spots swapped. We also celebrated our 20th wedding anniversary, Marcus & Julie's 15th, at a really nice restaurant with Matty & Ingrid and Mark & Barbara. It was perfect. Hanging with new and old friends is one of the best parts of traveling. In order of appearance:
- Sam & Don
- Kix Marshall
- Matty & Ingrid
- Mark & Barbara
- Marcus & Julie
Mirador Villa de Leyva
Up the hill, behind Mi Refugio, is a lookout over the town. While we mostly ate and did nothing during our time in Villa de Leyva, Sam & Don organized a hike one morning so we decided our sorry asses should join in. It was a fun time and a good ascent up the hillside. The day wasn't exactly clear but the view was very beautiful.
Casa Terracota
Another Don & Sam venture, one we were planning anyway, they insisted we walk the two kilometers to and from the Casa Terracota so we got a little more exercise than our planned drive. At 10,000 per person ($3.50), it was well worth the visit. The artistic detail was fabulous and the house remarkable. It is deceivingly large, a four bedroom, with far too many hang out areas to count.
Convento de Eccehomo
After a failed attempt at locating a hike 20km outside of town, appeared to be private property, we decided to check out a convent that is known for having floors that contain ammonites and fossils. It was interesting, only needing about 30 minutes to explore, and inexpensive at 5,000 per person ($1.70). The best example of the floor was actually in the alcove of the entry way and not in the convent itself.
Museo El Fosil
Who hasn't dreamed of seeing the fossilized remains of a kronosaurus? It was a quick stop after the convent, 8,000 per person ($2.72), with a fair bit of artifacts to peruse. Guides were available, we weren't offered one, so it's possible to learn more about the archeological significance of the region.
Honorable Mentions
While we don't list every place and thing we do there are some that stick in our minds. Weeks later we catch ourselves mentioning them to others or just savoring the memory of the exquisite cuisine we consumed. Here are a few standouts.
Astral
By far, one of the best bread places of the trip. We were lucky enough to stop in when an ancient grain soured dough was fresh out of the oven, yum. Prices range with an average of 10,000 for a large loaf and 3,000 for baguettes.
Pasteleria Francesa
Not too sweet and impeccably scrumptious. We started with a couple tarts, then ended up buying entire blackberry pies, to share of course, for 36,000 ($12). Mandi & Matty also swear by the eclairs. There is a huge selection, we just have a weakness for blackberries.
Montserrat
Our favorite breakfast haunt and a great deal at 7,000 ($2.35) for eggs, a couple pieces of bacon, toasted homemade bread, and a small french press of Colombian coffee. We also tried their crepes which were as delicious as breakfast.
Mercado Municipal
Slow cooked pork, let the drooling commence. The ribs were remarkable! Not cheap, averaging $15 per person but well worth it.
Piano Bar (El Rincon Gourmet)
Phenomenal, absolutely phenomenal. A fine dining experience with perfectly cooked filet mignon (lomo). It was the place where we celebrated our 20th wedding anniversary with 3 other couples. While not inexpensive, not overpriced either. An appetizer (empanaditas) and two filet dinners set us back $37. Adding starters, wine, and a great group of friends, expect to break $50 per couple. If there ever was a place to treat oneself, look no further.
Where are we now
Look Rock, TN
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